About
Saône-et-Loire
Saône et Loire is the seventh largest region in
France and is Burgundys most densely populated region. From north to
south it is traversed by the River Saône, a tributary of the Rhône,
which leads into the Mediterranean whilst the Loire heads in the
opposite direction and leads into the Atlantic. The Canal du Centre
connects the Saône and the Loire between Chalon and Digoin and thus
connects the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.
When it was formed during the French Revolution the
department combined the provinces of Southern Burgundy and Bresse, two
provinces that shared no previous common history or political history.
Its history is that therefore of Burgundy itself and can best be seen in
the history of individual towns such as Mâcon, Autun, Chalon-sur-Saône
and Charolles. In the west of the region is its industrial heart, Le
Creusot and Montceau-les-Mines.
Autun
Deep in its Roman history, todays Autun is a busy
place with plenty to see and do but retaining many structures relating
to Roman times when it was founded during the reign of Emperor Augustus.
There are two Roman gates, Porte St Andre and Porte d’Arroux along with
Roman walls and other remnants of the time of Augutus however probably
the most spectacular of these is the Roman theatre which, at the time,
was one of the largest in the western part of the Empire seating 17,000.
It remains to this day in excellent condition and many music and theatre
events are held in the open air in the theatre during the summer months.
Whilst in Autun its Romanesque cathedral dating
back to the early 12c is worthy of a visit. St Lazare Cathedral was
formerly the chapel of the Dukes of Burgundy and was built as a
pilgrimage church for the veneration of the relics of Lazarus, whom
Christ was thought to have raised from the dead. Bishop Étienne de Bâge
probably built the church in response to the church of Ste Madeleine,
home of the French cult of Mary Magdalene, Lazarus’ sister. St Lazare
Cathedral is famous for its incredible architectural sculpture
particularly the tympanum of The Last Judgement above the west portal.
Chalon-sur-Saône
As its name suggests Chalon lies on the River Saône
and is the largest City in the department. Once a bustling port it was a
distribution point for local wines which were sent up and down the river
and the Canal du Centre.
Chalon is a busy town with many fine cafes and
restaurants and is at the heart of the Chalonnaise wine growing region
and has a market three times a week. It also boasts a fine Romanesque
cathedral and is the birthplace of two unique characters, Dominique
Vivant-Denon, the first director of the Louvre and Nicephore Niepce,
inventor of the first photographic process. If you have an interest in
photography, or maybe even if not, the Nicephore Niepce museum at 28
quai des Messageries with its unique collections and images and cameras
is well worth a visit.
Le Creusot
Le Creusot is dominated by the memory of it’s
steelworks and in particular one, Schneider Iron and Steel Works famous
not only for building the first French locomotive in 1838 but also the
first steamship in 1839, the mainstay of WW1 artillary the 75mm field
gun and the ironworks for Pont Alexandre III and Gare l’Austerlitz in
Paris. In 1960, following the death of the last of the family, the
steelworks were broken up with a number of different companies carrying
on the tradition including Alstom who manufactures parts for the TGV. In
1838 the Château de la Verrerie was sold to the Schneider family and is
now the home of the Économusee le Creusot-Montceau, a museum dedicated
to the iron and steel industry and the neighbouring Salle du Jeu de
Paume shows Le Creusot’s role in the development of metallurgy.
Whilst researching for these pieces I stumbled
across a cablegram between the London Times and the New York Times dated
October 17th 1901 which relates to the discovery of 3000 guns
and revolvers, with ammunition at nearby Montceau-les-Mines a
hotbed of socialist agitation, it remarks that “the Government is uneasy
over this seemingly trivial affair”. It continues that “the fear of a
general strike of miners and other labour troubles grows” and that
yesterday the Minister of Public Works decreed that Railway Labourers
must not work more than 12 hours a day and must must have a whole day of
rest every month.
Working those sort of hours I’m not surprised at
the unrest however it does emphasise the industrial heritage of this
part of Burgundy.
Charolles
Famous for its wonderful white Charolais cattle and
the birthplace of Michel Roux the famous chef, Charolles was the capital
of Charolais, an old division of France. In 1327 the county passed, by
marriage, into the House of Armagnac, and in 1390 was sold to Philip of
Burgundy. Via Louis XI, Charles VII and Maximilian of Austria it
eventually found its way into the hands of the Spanish Kings and became,
for a considerable period, an object of dispute between France and
Spain. In 1684 it was assigned to the Great Conde, a creditor of the
King of Spain and was not reunited with the French until as recently as
1771.
Two place worth noting here, firstly the Maison du
Charolais, where you can learn all about the breed, the quality of its
meat and the passion which drives the stockbreeder throughout the year.
At the end of the tour you are treated to a tasting of roast Charolais
accompanied by a glass of red Burgundy wine. The second is the Musee
Municipal du Prieure, Municipal Museum of the Priory, which houses
paintings, earthenware and sculpture from the area. Most of the
earthenware on show relates to the founding of the earthenware factory
at Charolles in 1844 by Hippolyte Prost which was taken over in 1892 by
the Molin family.
Mâcon
Macon is situated on the Sâone just north of Lyon
and is the present day capital of the Sâone and Loire department. Today
it is a diverse city with both industrial and touristique aspects and in
recent history was a particularly active centre for the French
Resistance in WWII. Of course Mâcon is famous worldwide for its wines
but its history is a long one that dates back to the foundation of
ancient Matisco in the 2nd century BC which was soon to
become a busy crossroads. Bordered between the Kingdom of France and the
Holy Roman Empire Macon prospered between 843 and 1600 thanks to custom
duties that were established. In 1790 Mâcon became the capital of the
department of Sâone et Loire and in the same year one of its most famous
sons was born, the famous poet, writer and politician Alphonse de
Lamartine.
